Mexican Dreaming: Snapper Veracruz

I first encountered this dish in Zihuatanejo on the west coast of Mexico over 25 years ago. It remains one of the best meals I’ve ever had in that beautiful country and is so simple to prepare that’s it’s worth sharing.

Menu

• Snapper Veracruz
• Thai scented rice

Snapper Veracruz

Recipe: Snapper Veracruz

• Serves: 2-4 depending on additional side dishes
• Time: 30-45 minutes
• Style: Mexican, Fish, Seafood, Main

Ingredients:

• 2-4 good quality white fish fillets
• 1 Med. red bell pepper cut into thin strips
• 1 Med. green bell pepper cut into thin strips
• 1 or more small Serrano chilies, seeded and minced (opt.)
• 1 Med. onion sliced in thin strips
• 2-4 cloves of garlic minced
• 1 Med. Tomato, chopped (or 1/2 cup canned diced tomatoes)
• 1/4 cup green olives chopped or sliced
• 1-2 tsp of drained capers
• 1 tsp Cumin, ground
• 1/2 tsp Dried Oregano
• 1/2 c Red/White wine
• Water (as needed)
• 2-3 Tbsp Cilantro, chopped
• Coarse Salt
• Olive oil
• Fresh ground black pepper
• 1/2 Med. Lime

Salted Fillets

Wrapped Fillets

Method:

1. Prepare the fish fillets – Rinse with cold water (and debone if not boneless). Pat dry with paper towel and liberally salt both sides with coarse salt. Wrap salted fillets in multiple layers of paper towel or a clean tea towel. Thinner fillets should be salted for about 8-10 minutes, slightly thicker for 15-20. After resting rinse off the salt from the fillets under cold running water, pat dry and set aside.
2. Once the fish is ready, prepare your vegetables – Cut the sides away from the core of the bell peppers and thinly slice (about 2-3 mm thickness). Skin and cut the onion in half lengthwise and cut into thin slices about the same thickness as the peppers. Mince the garlic and chilies (if using), pit and slice the olives. Chop the tomato into roughly 1 cm cubes.
3. Create the sauce – In a large frying or sautéing pan, add a tablespoon or so of olive oil and heat to medium. Add the onions when the oil is hot, fry for a minute or so then add the peppers stirring frequently. When the peppers start to soften a little, add the garlic and chilies (if using) and cook for two minutes being careful not to brown the garlic. Add the cumin and crushed oregano and stir for a minute to combine. Throw in the tomatoes and add a few grinds of black pepper. Add wine, olives and capers. Reduce the heat a little and stir occasionally until the tomatoes break down and the mixture becomes “sauce” like. If it looks a little dry add a bit more wine or water. Taste and add more salt/spices if necessary.
4. Cook the fish – Pushing the vegetable mixture to the outer edges of the pan, carefully lay the prepared fillets in the middle of the pan and then push the vegetable/sauce mixture over the top of the fillets and cook until done (about 5-10 minutes). Sprinkle in the chopped cilantro add a light squeeze of lime and serve over rice.

Prepped Ingredients

Sautéing Vegetables

Finished Sauce Covering Fish

Notes:

• Salting the fish is entirely optional but it will firm the tender fillets and allow them to pick up the flavor or the sauce quickly. This step does not make the fillets taste “salty” provided you don’t leave the salt on too long.
• The salt you use for the fish is important! Use pickling, very coarse kosher or coarse sea salt. Do not use table salt. The latter will destroy the delicate flesh of the fish and over-salt the finished dish.
• This dish works with almost any type of whitefish – cod, lingcod, haddock, rockfish, etc- fresh or frozen. The fillets shown in the photos are pacific cod. The fillets shouldn’t be too thick, maybe 2 cm max. Thicker fillets will work but you’ll get less flavor from the sauce into the flesh. You could also substitute large uncooked prawns easily (but skip the salting if you do).
• Figure on 250 grams (1/2 lb) of fish per person. The only trick is using a pan big enough to lay the fish into.
• This is one dish where I don’t measure too closely. The measurements given are more of a guide than anything. Go with your gut. Not saucy enough? Add more tomato. Love olives? Go big. Not keen on spice? Skip the Serrano chili (I usually do even though I love spicy foods). Be creative.

Moules et Frites (Mussels and Fries)

My wife and I have a special place reserved in our hearts for Moules et Frites–it was the first restaurant meal we shared at the long since closed Santo’s Bistro in Vancouver. For me they also bring back fond memories of my time as a student in Montreal, where cheap mussels were a staple at home and in the bars that lined Saint Laurent Boulevard.

We serve mussels on special occasions and this time it was for my wife’s birthday. Cooking mussels can be as simple as steaming them until they open and serving them with a little garlic butter, but we like to go the extra distance.

Menu

• Mussels in Cream Sauce
• French fries
• Balsamic glazed snow peas
• Sliced mango
• Crusty baguette for dipping
• Milk for the kids, Lillet and soda for the adults

Recipe: Mussels in Cream Sauce

• 2 lbs Wild or cultured Mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded
• 4 tbs Butter, salted or unsalted
• 1 c Mirepoix (finely diced onions, carrot, celery, peppers, parsley, etc.)
• 1 c White wine
• 1/4 c Red or orange bell peppers, thinly sliced
• 1/4 c Baby asparagus tips
• 4 cloves Minced garlic
• 1 Tbs Flat leafed parsley
• 1/2 c Whipping cream (or to taste)
• Fresh ground black pepper to finish

Method

1. In a medium sauce pan melt 3 Tbs butter and saute the mirepoix to soften
2. Add white wine and five mussels in the shell and bring to a high simmer
3. Remove the mussel meat when the shells open and return the shells to the pan, reserving the meat
4. Simmer the stock covered for a few minutes, uncover, add a cup of water and bring to a boil
5. Remove the pan from the heat and strain into a heat proof bowl squeezing as much liquid as possible from the cooked mirepoix
6. You should be left with approximately 1 1/2 c of stock, if not add a little water or wine to extend
7. In a deep saucepan large enough to hold the finished dish, melt 1 Tbs of butter and lightly saute the garlic, and remaining vegetables for one to two minutes
8. Add the stock and whipping cream to the pan, stir to combine and bring to a low boil
9. Add the mussels and stir to combine
10. Cover and cook until the mussels open
11. Remove from heat immediately and add reserved parsley, mussel meat and pepper
12. Transfer to a decorative bowl and serve hot

Notes: The cooking process essentially involves 2 steps: making a stock and cooking the mussels. If you wish to use a mild fish stock or a low sodium chicken stock you can skip to step six above, but you should add a half cup of sliced onions along with the peppers and asparagus tips before adding the stock and whipping cream. I’m a bit torn between using unsalted butter or salted butter in this dish. The result is naturally quite salty due to the liquid released from the shells when they open. If you prefer less salt then definitely use unsalted butter in the rest of the cooking process. The mirepoix is a thing of personal preference, but it almost always should include carrots and onions. Normally I would include celery, but I had none on hand.

Serves 4-6 depending on appetite.

Aaron

Dinner on the patio